Buying a used car privately: the checklist

Which papers should you check first?

Before you go to see a car, ask the seller the key questions in the Afër chat: whose name is the car registered in, how long have they owned it, is there a service book with receipts, has it been in an accident? The answers stay in the chat, ready to compare with the papers when you meet. If the papers don't add up, stop there.

• Registration: In Kosovo, the Ministry of Internal Affairs calls the document Certifikata e regjistrimit të automjetit (CRA). In Albania, the road transport authority DPSHTRR says the seller brings the registration (leje qarkullimi) and, if it isn't yet the new format, also the ownership certificate (certifikatë pronësie), plus a valid technical inspection certificate and the car's technical documents.
• Name: The name on the registration must match the seller's ID. If someone is selling a car that isn't registered to them, take extra care.
• VIN: The number on the papers must be exactly the one on the car; more on that in the next section.
• Service and repairs: The service book or digital service record, workshop receipts and inspection reports. The more complete, the better.
• Imported car: In Kosovo, the first registration of an imported car requires, among other things, the single customs document (Dokumenti Unik Doganor), according to the Ministry of Internal Affairs. If a car still has foreign plates, ask for the customs papers and have the responsible office confirm that it can be registered.

Also ask about anything owed on the car. In Albania, DPSHTRR says a vehicle has to be active in its system and free of obligations before it can be sold: no unpaid taxes or late interest with the authority, and no entries with Interpol or in the register of security interests (RBS), where a car can be recorded as collateral for a loan, for example. In Kosovo, the Ministry of Internal Affairs' instruction on vehicle registration says the owner can't be changed until traffic fines are paid. Sort these points out before you pay, not after.

Where do you find the VIN and what can it tell you?

The VIN (vehicle identification number) is a string of letters and digits that identifies one specific vehicle. Exactly where it's stamped depends on the manufacturer. You'll usually find it in these places:

• On the driver's side at the bottom of the windscreen, where it meets the dashboard, readable from outside through the glass.
• On a sticker or plate on the driver's door or the door frame.
• On the registration; a mechanic's inspection report should list it too.

Compare every location character by character. If a number is scratched, covered or doesn't match the papers, walk away, even if the seller has an explanation ready.

You can use the VIN to look up a car's history online. These services show reported data such as accidents or flood damage for some markets and little or nothing for others. The US Federal Trade Commission points out that such a report typically doesn't list mechanical problems and is no substitute for an independent inspection. We don't recommend any particular provider, and a clean report doesn't prove the car has never been in an accident.

Is the mileage genuine, and what has the car been through?

Odometer tampering does happen. A 2018 study for the European Parliament cites a European Commission estimate that 30 to 50 % of used cars sold across borders within the EU have a manipulated odometer. Kosovo and Albania aren't in the EU and aren't covered by that figure, but with an imported car it's still worth looking closely.

According to the German automobile club ADAC, a cleanly done manipulation can't be detected by workshops or by the vast majority of experts. So you'll have to rely on clues:

• Does the mileage fit the entries in the service book, workshop receipts, inspection reports and oil change stickers? If it's lower anywhere than in an earlier entry, that's a warning sign.
• Does the wear fit the reading? A shiny, worn steering wheel, a polished gear knob, sagging seats or worn pedal rubbers don't sit well with low mileage.
• Ask directly about accidents and repairs, and get the answer in writing, in the chat or in the sales contract.

What should you look at during the viewing?

Arrange to see the car in daylight and ask the seller not to drive it for at least an hour beforehand. Only with a cold engine can you tell whether it struggles to start or runs rough. Take your time and work through the list yourself:

• ✓Bodywork: even gaps between doors, bonnet, boot and wings, and the same colour and finish on every panel. Uneven gaps, ripples or colour differences can point to repaired accident damage.
• ✓Rust: paint bubbles and rust spots, especially on the sills, wheel arches, lower door edges and, if you can, the underbody.
• ✓Tyres: enough tread, even wear, no damage; uneven wear can point to a suspension problem. The DOT number shows their age, and the German auto club ACE suggests tyres preferably no older than six years.
• ✓Fluids: oil and coolant at the right level, a dry engine bay and no oil stains under the car. Only open the coolant cap when the engine is cold.
• ✓Cold start: the engine starts straight away and runs smoothly.
• ✓Warning lights: they light up briefly when you switch on the ignition and then go out. If one stays on, or none light up at all, ask why.
• ✓Electrics: windows, mirrors, all lights, indicators, radio and every switch work.
• ✓Air conditioning and heating: the air conditioning blows cold within a short time.
• ✓Interior: dry, with no mould stains or musty smell.

If the car is expensive or you're not sure, have it inspected before you buy by an independent mechanic or assessor you choose yourself. The FTC recommends asking for a written report with estimated repair costs, which also helps you negotiate the price. If the seller won't allow an inspection, that's a good reason to keep looking.

How do you get the most out of a test drive?

Do the test drive before you sign anything, and do it with the seller in the car. Check beforehand how the car is insured and who pays for any damage. If you can, drive through town, on country roads, over a rough stretch and a little faster, because some faults only show up at higher speeds.

• Brakes: the car stays in its lane when you brake, with no grinding noises, and the handbrake holds it on a slope.
• Steering: on a straight, level road the car goes straight, the steering wheel is centred and stays put when you brake.
• Gearbox: the gears change easily and quietly.
• Noises: listen with the window open for the engine, gearbox and exhaust. Knocking at full lock or rattling on a rough road are warning signs.
• Vibration: if the steering wheel vibrates at higher speeds, ask why.
• After the drive: look under the engine again for dripping oil.

How do the contract, payment and transfer work?

In Kosovo, the Ministry of Internal Affairs' instruction requires a sales contract certified by a notary or a court for the change of owner, which is done at a vehicle registration centre. In Albania, DPSHTRR says the contract can be drawn up at a notary or at the counters of the regional registration office (DRSHTRR), and the buyer has to complete the change of ownership there within 30 days. Documents, fees and deadlines can change, so confirm them beforehand with the responsible office or the notary.

1. Check the ID, the registration and the VIN one last time.
2. Put it in the contract: the full names, addresses and ID numbers of both sides, make, model, VIN, mileage, price, date and time, known accident damage and defects, and any accessories included.
3. Both sides sign: in Kosovo with certification by a notary or a court, in Albania at a notary or the DRSHTRR counter.
4. Pay only now, and take the keys, all the papers, the service book and the receipts.
5. Register the car in your name with the responsible office. In Kosovo, the Ministry of Internal Affairs lists, among other things, an insurance policy in your name and, in some cases, proof of the technical inspection.

Never pay the full price or a deposit before you've seen the car and checked the papers. A seller who wants money up front or pushes you to hurry is a reason to stop.

On Afër you pay the seller directly; there's no payment service and no buyer protection. For more on paying safely and spotting known scams, read our guide how to buy used without scams. If a listing or a person seems suspicious, report them; our team reviews reports. Browse cars on Afër.